|
Alpaca …fiber of the Gods
Alpacas were the
cherished treasure of ancient Incan royalty and played a central role in the
Incan culture in the mountains of South America. They have been domesticated for
7000 years, twice as long as any other livestock. Alpaca fiber is stronger than
mohair, finer than cashmere, smoother than silk, softer than cotton, warmer than
goose down, and breathes better than thermal knits. Alpaca is extremely durable
proven by the fine garments
discovered in Peruvian ruins dating back 2500 years still in good
condition. Unique among "luxury" fibers for its drape, sheen, and wonderfully
smooth hand, designers of apparel and textiles in Europe and Asia have been
capitalizing on its properties for decades.
An Ancient Incan legend states: Ausangate
is a magnificent snow-covered peak south of Cuzco, Peru, and the legendary
source of llamas and alpacas. According to legend, Pachamama (Mother Earth)
loaned alpacas and llamas so people of the puna could survive. Since the animals
belong to Pachamama, they must be well-fed and never treated cruelly. If they
are not properly cared for, Pachamama will call them back to Ausangate and
people will disappear.
Alpaca is known for its diversity of
colors ranging from white to black, with shades of brown and gray in between –
22 shades in all. Alpaca clothing has very little “prickle factor” making it
comfortable to wear next to the skin. Often a person who profess to be allergic
to wool, are either affected by the lanolin in sheep’s wool, or the cleansing
process used to remove it. Alpaca has no lanolin making it hypoallergenic and
luxurious.
Alpaca is great for outdoor apparel. It
is resistant to water, naturally wicks water away from the skin, and is 7 times
warmer than wool. It packs well without much wrinkling, does not stain easily,
and resists pilling.
There are 2 types of alpacas ~ the
elegant suri with its long pencil-thin ringlets; and the huacaya with a teddy
bear-like appearance. Suri fiber is very fine and best suited for lacy shawls,
and garments with drape. Suri fiber typically has more sheen or luster than the
huacaya fiber. Huacaya fiber is loftier and perfect for sweaters and outdoor
apparel, socks and accessories.
Fiber character
A histogram is a precise way to measure
the microns of a single fiber using equipment specifically designed for the wool
industry. We run histograms on our alpacas every few years to give us an idea
whether they are healthy. Drastic changes to a histogram may point to
environmental, nutritional and/or health issues. A better understanding of
histograms can be found at
http://www.ymccoll.com
The diameter of alpaca fiber falls mostly
in the range of 17 to 34 microns. One micron equals one millionth of a meter or
1/24,400th of an inch. In the United States, alpaca fiber is graded
as follows:
There are many
factors that influence your alpacas fleece, including
-
Genetics
-
Environmental conditions
-
Stress
-
Hormones
-
Pasture management
-
Nutrition
Terms used in the alpaca industry are
crimp, guard hair, lock structure, architecture, luster, handle, uniformity,
and staple length. (Please refer to the ‘Fiber Encyclopedia’ tab for definitions.)
Shearing
First and foremost, shear your alpacas
every spring! Allowing your alpacas to remain in full fleece during hot summer
weather is neglect, pure and simple. Before you even consider purchasing your
first alpacas, find a shearer in your location and get your name on their list!
Prior to shearing, pick hay and debris
from each fleece. We find that by using a blower (or shop vac in reverse) you
can shoot much of the debris and sand out. This not only provides you with a
nice, clean fleece but the shearer’s blades will last longer. If you keep your
pastures clean throughout the year, your fleece prep should go quickly.
Designate a space where there is ample
room to move around, and a dry area out of the wind. Most shearer’s prefer to
have the alpaca lying on its side for shearing. Some will bring their own
shearing table (much easier on the back!) but many shear on the ground. If this
is the plan, make sure to provide a tarp to work on. Clean the area after each
shearing so that your fleeces are not polluted by debris or multiple fiber colors.
Prepare for your shearing day prior to
the shearer arriving. Have available enough bags (plastic, paper or cloth) for
the prime fleece, the secondary fleece (neck & upper legs), and the scrap (lower
legs & belly). Make tags for each animal which includes their name, registry
number, date of shearing, the cut, and a place to write the clip weight. If you
plan to run a histogram on the fiber, provide hair-bands to gather up a sample
prior to the shearer starting. (The sample can be pulled from the bag while
skirting.) Have several rags on hand to drape over the spitters in the crowd, or
clean up after a very nervous animal.
Line up an ample staff for the day. Along
with the shearer, there should be a person to hold the front legs, a person to
hold the back legs, a person to hold the head, and one person to pick up and
distribute fiber to the appropriate bags. It’s a good idea to have a first aid
kit on hand as well, both for the alpacas and the humans. The kit should include
things such as blood stop, scissors and bandages, antibiotic ointment, and a
suture kit. Last of all, a cooler of nice cold drinks is always appreciated.
Once the shearing is complete, you will
want to move your fleeces to an area where they will not become infested by bugs
or pawed through by your barn cats! If you used plastic bags, make sure to keep
the tops open so that any moisture can dissipate. Paper or cloth is the
preferred method if you plan to store the fleeces for any length of time.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lee with Hurricane Lili in full fleece |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Prior to shearing, Lil confers with shearer |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Shearing crew gets ready to lift Lil onto the table |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The crew waits until she is secure before releasing her |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Terry shears the first side while the crew keeps Lil calm |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
" ... and then just a little off the topknot ..." |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lil is finished - Terry & Anne release her ankles |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The crew lifts her from the table on a count of 3 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lisa places a prime fleece in a storage bag |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lil sports her new overall "doo" |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Liz skirts (cleans) debris from a fleece |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Processing your fiber
There are many, many things you can do
with your alpaca fleece but please don’t just stick it into storage. If you
don’t plan to use it, sell it wholesale to someone who will. At least you will
recoup some of your shearing expenses.
Processing your fleece is not difficult.
First, determine what you want the end result to be – used for hand spinning,
mill processed rovings or yarn, or for show. Regardless of method, you will want
to skirt your fleeces.
-
Skirting for show is the most
time consuming. The fleece should be kept intact as much as possible. Construct
a skirting screen using wire mesh or snow fence material with a 1” hole in
between the mesh. Attach the mesh to a wood frame approximately 2.5x5’ in size.
Turn the fleece so that the cut side is down on the screen. Gently shake remaining dust and carefully hand-pick remaining debris from the fleece.
Remove any guard hair, or fiber that is not consistent with the rest of the
fleece (character is not quite as nice and/or shorter pieces). Be careful not to
remove too much of the fleece because part of the show score is determine by the
weight of the fleece. Remove any “second cuts” created when the shearer cuts
over one spot a second time. Once you are satisfied with the fleece, carefully
fold the fleece cut-side in and place it back in the bag. If you feel that the
neck or upper leg fiber warrants “prime” status, skirt that as well and place it
in the bag with the prime fleece. You are now ready for the show!
-
Skirting for hand processing
is similar to that of the show fleece, however, it’s
not necessary to keep the fleece intact. I usually pull large chunks out to work
on, and stick them back into the bag when I’m satisfied with it. Once skirted,
the fleece can be hand or drum carded at home. While it takes much longer to
hand process your fleeces, you will feel a huge sense of accomplishment and
thoroughly enjoy spinning yarn from your own herd!
-
While alpacas
have no grease in their fleece, and it can be carded directly from the animal,
you may prefer to wash the fleeces before carding. Fill your washer or a large
tub with hot water. Once full, add detergent – this can be anything from wool
wash to shampoo. Place part of your fleece loosely in a mesh laundry bag and
slowly submerse it in the hot water. Let the fiber soak for at least 30 minutes,
longer if extremely dirty. Slowly remove the bag of fiber taking care not to let
the water rush out too quickly which will create felting. Repeat the wash as
many times as necessary. Once the fleece is clean, run cool water and submerse
it for 30 minutes to soak. Slowly remove the fleece, gently remove it from the
bag and lay it out to dry. I use my skirting table which allows airflow from all
sides. Once the fiber is partially dry, pull it apart further to keep it from
felting. This makes it easier to card once dry.
-
Skirting for mill processing
is the easiest process. You will still want to remove sand and any large debris,
but the mill equipment will remove the majority of the debris and short cuts.
Not all mills will process your individual fleeces and many are not accomplished
with luxury fibers such as alpaca. Make sure to check references prior to
trusting them with your precious fleeces!
-

Feel free to contact us with further questions or information.
|