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Farm setup
Since we had to start
our farm from scratch, and wanted to bring our small herd home as soon as
possible, we started out with several temporary setups. This allowed us time to
decide which layouts worked best for our farm. This also gave us a good
idea how we could most efficiently and effectively run the farm. We would like
to share our experience and tips with you.
Pastures
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We found the most effective way to
maintain our pasture was by creating many small sections and rotating animals
on a weekly basis. We started by permanently fencing in a large area of
pasture, and then used snow fencing to create smaller pastures. By doing this,
we determined the best place and size for the sections and where we would like
gates. Temporary shelters are very helpful if you plan to use pastures further
from the barn.
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Our property is long and skinny. Nearest
to the barn, our pastures fan out from the barn creating 3 separate areas. Each area
opens up into the next area in at least 2 locations. All 3 areas open into
another larger pasture further back on our property. By “creative gating” Lee
has provided several ways to reduce or enlarge each pasture, as needed. It
also allows a no-stress way to move animals from one pasture to another.
Shelter
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We started by building a small, 2-story
barn which was large enough to adequately hold two 9x9 pens and a winter
supply of hay. Our “hip-style” barn is metal with a white roof. We chose white
so that it would stay cooler during hot summers. We transformed another small
area on the property into pasture for our boys. There we added onto an
existing shed creating a 3-sided enclosure large enough to house 4 - 5 animals
in inclement weather.
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During our second year, we decided that
insulating the barn would make it a much nicer place for “the humans” to work
in during colder temps. The insulation not only helps to keep the barn warmer
in the winter but, along with the white roof, it keeps the barn much cooler
during our hot summers.
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A shelter can be something as simple as a
3-sided structure, but we don’t recommend this type of structure if you intend
to have crias during chilly weather!
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No matter what type of shelter you decide
on, know your wind patterns and make sure the opening is facing away from the
wind. When considering location, you may also want to determine if electricity
can be run to this location. You will be thankful for lighting and electrical
sockets during shorter days and cooler temps. Alpacas cannot see very well in
the dark (similar to humans) and appreciate a night light in the barn near
their pens.
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Being a small farm sometimes makes it hard
to quarantine an animal. The use of a temporary shed or tarp, and some
lightweight pen panels makes confinement an option. There will come a time
when you need to confine an animal, so keep this in mind as you plan your
farm. Tarps can also be used in open pastures to create shade during hot
times.
Seasonal setups
No matter where you
live, you will need to tailor your shelters, feed and processes to meet the
animal’s needs. Often something that may work well during one season needs to be
tweaked to work during another.
Winterizing
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If you plan to use buckets for water,
invest in heated buckets. We have found heated buckets with a bottom pocket to
fold the cord into when not needed. Keep an eye on water consumption – a
second water bucket may be needed with electrolytes added to encourage water
drinking.
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Learn to body-score! An animal in full
fleece can lose weight underneath all that fiber and still appear normal. By
body-scoring on a regular basis, you will know if your animals are keeping a
healthy weight.
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The belly of an alpaca is their natural
thermal window and, especially older animals with less fiber coverage require
insulation against the cold. Placing 6-8” of straw in each pen is sufficient
to keep them warm.
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During cold weather you will want to
provide higher protein hay – the second or third cutting, if possible. We also
enhance their grain supplement with rolled, steamed oats and finely cracked
corn for energy.
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Those of us living in the north have much
less sunshine during winter months. Supplementing with vitamin D in spring and
fall (especially darker animals) will help to keep them in prime
shape.
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Winter is an especially hard time for
newborn crias. Their temperature must be high enough to utilize the nutrients
provided by the dam’s colostrum. During cold weather it is especially
important that crias are kept warm during their first several days. They
need ample time to regulate their body temperature so they are not expending
too much energy just to stay warm. A warm, dry shelter is a must!
Preparing for our first
Winter Criation (Article, 2005)
There is nothing more
exciting than the birth of a cria. We had mixed emotions as we prepared for our
first winter cria. When we purchased a pregnant female last spring and they told
us her due date was January 6th, we thought twice about buying her!
Challenges usually don’t stop us and we were determined to make this the best
experience – we set a plan in motion to prepare for the worst. Already having a
heated rabbitry on our “to do” list for fall, we decided to expand the building
to allow enough room for our mother-to-be. As summer came and went and our herd
expanded, we felt the rabbits were cutting into our alpaca-time too much so
(somewhat reluctantly on my part) we sold off the entire rabbitry.
I was sad to see the
rabbits go, but very excited about the opportunity this allowed for a larger
heated area for the alpacas – 8’x20’ is large enough for 2 adults to live for
awhile without a severe case of cabin fever setting in. The addition would also
come in handy for herd health days during chilly weather – something our vet
will appreciate too!
We used cement pavers
as flooring and added a drain to one corner so it’s easy to hose out when
necessary. Behind a fence panel, we have a very safe oil heater, and over the
stall hangs a heat lamp (which also acts as a night light). We also lined the
pen with 6” of straw for insulation. Two weeks prior to the dam’s due date, we
chose a well-suited buddy and started to keep them inside while we were away.
The addition of a video camera made it easy for us to check on them without
leaving the house. To our birthing kit we added “Little Hotties” adhesive body
warmers to stick inside the cria coat once dry, and a “Snugglesafe” pet bed
warmer for underneath the straw for added warmth.
December flew by and
before we knew it we were preparing for our New Year’s Eve party. We fed the
alpacas early that morning and didn’t think to check the video cam until 10:45
AM. And there he was – not more than a few minutes old! Nothing like adding a
little more chaos to an already hectic day! We missed the actual birth but were
thankful to be home when he arrived. All of our planning was well worth the
trouble and, while I wouldn’t plan another winter birth, we now have confidence
to handle it!
**Update** 2006 offered
a time to help another farm with a winter birth. We were lucky to have mild
temps and a very nice dam to work with. Everything went as planned and a lovely
little female cria appeared on November 25th. We are happy to offer
our “winter birthing” as another farm service!
Summerizing
If you live in a hot, humid area your
animals could be prone to hyperthermia if not cared for properly. Hyperthermia
is caused by the body temperature rising too high - 10 degrees above normal body
temperature can cause death.
Signs of hyperthermia are:
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Open mouth panting, nostrils flaring
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Sunken eyes
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Extreme lethargy
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Uncoordinated movements
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Seizures
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Dry mouth
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Cushed without the ability to rise
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Decreased elasticity of skin (Pinch an
area where there is little fiber such as around their eyes. If it doesn’t
spring right back, the animal is dehydrated and should be given electrolytes!)
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Note: extremely hot temperatures decreases
fertility in males. Breeding during this time can cause defects in crias.
What can you do to prevent hyperthermia?
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The most important rule of all, make sure
your animals are shorn before hot weather arrives. Imagine wearing a heavy
wool sweater during 80 degree temperatures!!
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When constructing your shelter, try to
include some windows or doors that can be left open for extra ventilation
during nice weather. A cross-breeze makes a huge difference and will help to
keep bacteria from collecting.
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Make sure to have plenty of clean water in
each pasture, and one water bucket per pasture containing electrolytes.
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Provide sprinklers that shoot up about
3-4’ high to cool off your animal’s bellies. Soaking the entire animal is not
a good idea and can lead to heat exhaustion.
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On very hot days, provide a plastic kiddy
pool to dip their toes in. Once they have all had a turn, dump the water so
they don’t soil it or drink from it.
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Provide a lower protein grass hay if
pasture is not available.
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It’s very important to have shady areas to
get out of the hot sun. In a pinch you can use a tarp in a strategically
placed area.
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Hold off on stressful procedures - if the
procedure must be done, perform it in the early morning or late evening once
the sun is down and temps have fallen.
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Do not breed for hot weather births;
newborns are especially susceptible to heat stress and hyperthermia.
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If you have a heat stressed or
hyperthermic animal, take action immediately!!
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First, take the animal's temperature. If
too high (nearly 10 degrees higher than normal), call your vet!!
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Immerse the animal in cool water if
possible, or hose down their stomach and legs with cool water.
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Bundle ice packs or bags of ice around them
as they cush.
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Provide fans and shade.
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Provide water with electrolytes; Pedialyte
is a good source of quick electrolytes.
No matter the area you live
in, you will have special needs for your climate. Talk to and
visit nearby alpaca farms and ask how they handle your seasons. |
